Niacinamide and Skin Care: Can 2% Really Control Facial Oil?

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a widely celebrated ingredient in modern skin care. It's praised for reducing inflammation, improving skin tone, and strengthening the skin barrier. But one of its most intriguing potential benefits is oil regulation—particularly its impact on facial sebum production, which plays a major role in acne, clogged pores, and oily shine.

This blog takes a deep dive into a detailed research study published in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy titled “The Effect of 2% Niacinamide on Facial Sebum Production” by Zoe Diana Draelos, Akira Matsubara, and Kenneth Smiles. The study is one of the few to objectively evaluate how 2% topical niacinamide affects sebum levels across different ethnicities. Below, we break it down into understandable, research-based insights for dermatology professionals and skin care enthusiasts alike.

Sebum is the oily, waxy substance naturally produced by sebaceous glands (oil glands) in the skin. It's composed of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, and other lipids. While it plays a key role in:

• Preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL),
• Protecting against UV damage,
• Acting as a carrier for antioxidants,

…it also contributes to facial shine, acne, and enlarged pores, especially when overproduced. On average, there are 400–800 sebaceous glands per cm² on the face, and the sebum layer can reach over 4 mm in thickness.

Studies show that 70% of American women and 62% of Japanese women consider oily skin a significant cosmetic concern. While many products aim to absorb oil (like blotting papers or mattifying powders), few target sebum production itself—especially over-the-counter (OTC) options.

The research aimed to evaluate whether topical 2% niacinamide can reduce sebum production in people with oily skin. The researchers focused on two groups:

• Japanese women (n=100): Used 2% niacinamide or placebo twice daily for four weeks.
• Caucasian women (n=30): Used a split-face study design over six weeks—one side treated with 2% niacinamide, the other left untreated.

Why study different ethnicities? Because sebaceous activity and response to treatment can vary across skin types, and tailoring treatment accordingly can improve efficacy.

The two clinical trials employed instrument-based measurements and dermatologist assessments to measure sebum:

• Sebumeter SM810: Measured sebum excretion rate (SER) by testing oil levels immediately after cleansing and again after 90 minutes.
• Sebutape: Adhesive strips applied to the skin to absorb oil, later analyzed by light transmission (translucency increases with oil absorption).
• Visual assessment: Dermatologists evaluated shine, oiliness, and skin condition using standardized scoring.

Study Products:

• Active Gel: 2% niacinamide + 1% d-panthenol (a humectant).
• Placebo Gel: Same formula minus niacinamide and panthenol.

In the Japanese cohort of 100 women (ages 20–49, mean 36.4 years), the results were compelling:

Sebumeter Results:

• Week 2:
  • Niacinamide group: 21.3% sebum reduction
  • Placebo group: 8.6% reduction (p=0.013)
• Week 4:
  • Niacinamide group: 21.8% reduction
  • Placebo group: 10.7% reduction (p=0.027)

Sebutape Results:

• Week 4:
  • Niacinamide group showed significantly reduced oil area fraction compared to placebo (p=0.011)

Conclusion: Niacinamide effectively reduced sebum excretion in Japanese women, particularly over four weeks. The effect became statistically significant by the second week and more pronounced by week four.

Niacinamide’s Effect on Caucasian Skin

In the U.S.-based study of 30 Caucasian women (also ages 20–49), a split-face study design was used—one side treated, the other untouched. This method controls for individual skin physiology.

Casual Sebum Level (CSL):

• Week 6:
  • Niacinamide-treated side: 8.8% reduction in CSL
  • Untreated side: 1.6% increase
  • p-value = 0.055 (borderline significance)

Sebum Excretion Rate (SER):

• No statistically significant difference between the treated and untreated sides at any point (though there was a directional trend toward reduced oil).

Dermatologist Visual Assessments:

• Facial shine:
  • Significant improvement at Week 6 (p=0.009)
• Oiliness:
  • Reduced at Week 3 (p=0.024) and Week 6 (p=0.0002)
• Overall skin condition:
  • Improved by Week 3 (p=0.012) and Week 6 (p<0.00001)

Conclusion: While instrumental data lacked significance, visual assessments confirmed that 2% niacinamide improved skin appearance, reduced shine and oiliness in Caucasian skin.

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Despite its proven effect, the exact mechanism of niacinamide in sebum reduction is still being studied. However, researchers theorize:

1. Not systemic: It likely doesn’t affect sebaceous glands hormonally.
2. Exfoliation at follicular ostia: Niacinamide may enhance exfoliation in sebaceous ducts, promoting faster sebum flow and depleting surface oil reservoirs.
3. Improved skin barrier: As shown in other studies, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, potentially affecting oil flow dynamics.

It’s important to note: there were no ingredients in the gels capable of absorbing sebum—ruling out simple oil masking.

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Niacinamide at 2% is:

• Safe for daily use
• Effective for sebum control, particularly in Japanese skin
• Improves visible skin quality, especially in Caucasian women
• Works better with continued use over 4–6 weeks

Its dual benefits—oil regulation and cosmetic enhancement—make it a great candidate for OTC moisturizers and skin care formulations. The addition of 1% d-panthenol likely helped maintain skin hydration without disrupting the effect.

Conclusion: Niacinamide’s Power in Oil-Control Regimens

This research confirms what many skin care professionals have long suspected: 2% niacinamide is a powerful ingredient in the fight against facial shine and excess sebum. Though results may vary slightly by ethnicity, the consistent improvement in visual oiliness, facial shine, and skin condition makes it a highly recommended ingredient in cosmeceutical formulations.

For oily skin sufferers looking for non-prescription options, topical niacinamide provides a safe and measurable improvement in sebum-related issues—without the side effects associated with hormonal or prescription treatments.